Sunday, 19 June 2016

Skye journeys, 17 June

Skye journeys, 17 June

A better weather day dawned and we set out with an ambitious plan to explore all of the northern half of Skye.Started wiht the most northerly bit, the Trotternish peninsula. The road was a classic Scottish minor road, single lane with numerous passing places, all tarsealed but pretty rough in parts. "Better weather" meant less rain than the previous day and some sunny bits. But quite cool - I was glad of my beanie (thanks Karilyn) and we wore all the layers we had.

The crofting museum at Kilmuir was an interesting stop to learn about the crofting life style and the hardships faced. The museum is a collection of 7 thatched crofters cottages, filled with artifacts with labels and explanations carefully typed out by keen museum supporters. That is, nothing flashy, but it still manages to be a fascinating slice of history. The overall impression is how tough the crofters must have been, or maybe how soft we have become since.
Crofters cottage at Kilmuir museum.

An old cemetery up the road has Flora MacDonald's grave. She helped Bonnie Prince Charlie after the disastrous defeat at Culloden to keep ahead of his pursuers long enough for him to leave Scotland never to return. The modern part of the cemetery has the grave of Alexander McQueen, fashion designer.

Nearby at Kilvaxter was an iron age souterrain, recently discovered and dating from about 2,600 years ago. It was a tunnel used for food storage - I could have crawled in for the entire 17m length, on hands and knees, shoulder width, pitch dark of course, but thought better of it and stayed outside.
Entrance to souterrain.
Further on we came to Balmcquien on the coast at the northern tip of Skye, where we think the McQueens lived. Although nearly midsummer, it was only 12 degrees and there was a very cold wind. There were just a few houses, and a few sheep. The rocks were nice. The granite Quiraing hills behind were awe inspiring. My forebears were indeed tough, even if I'm not so.
One of the modern, soft,McQueens at the ancestral family sign post.

Some of the nice rocks at Balmcquien.
As we continued, the weather improved, with more sunny spells and absolutely spectacular scenery. We completed the loop arond Trotternish, then parts of Waternish, parts of Duirnish, including various dead end roads, eventually making it back to Portree around 8 pm having made the most of the better weather. A highlight was the spectcular drive up into the Quiraing hills on the road to Uig.
Wild views and wild roads. In the Quiraing hills on the road to Uig.

Everyone ws in the Quitaing hills that day.
Kilt Rock, near Ellishadder.

Loch Harport near Struan, beautiful with the sun out.

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